The Heritage Club - September 2020
This month we feature two exciting wines from southern Italy. One wine, the Fiano, is from southwestern Italy near Naples. The other is from Puglia, in southeastern Italy. Both of these wines are rare in terms of their varietal which makes them fun. Additionally, these varietals are uniquely classical and have been consumed by Italians for millennia with roots in ancient Roman viticulture.
Antica Masseri fiano “Sigillo Apio” 2018
Producer: Sanpaolo Azienda Agraria
Winemaker: Claudio Quarta
Region: Campania, Italy
Grape Varietal: Fiano
Viticulture: Sandy/clay, with the volcanic soil typical of the hills around Avellino.
Method: Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks over 3 months.
Serving Suggestions: Serve cold with shellfish, cheeses, and white meats.
Age: I would drink this wine now, but it will be just fine for another couple of years if stored properly.
Nose: Pear, pineapple, honey, and toasted nuts.
Tasting Notes: Brightly acidic with notes of grapefruit, pineapple, and toasted almond brought together with a wonderful waxy texture.
WHY WE’RE EXCITED ABOUT THIS WINE
If like me, you love wine, then you are always ecstatic to sample new and rare varietals. My introduction to wine truly began in Italy, therefore I have a soft spot for quintessential Italian wines. This wine could not be more quintessentially Italian.
While most view Italy through the lens of big and bold rustic reds, in actuality, most native Italians drink white wine with much more frequency. Whereas some recent club whites have featured wonderful acidity, the Fiano is much richer and is highlighted by an almost waxy texture.
A large part of loving wine is loving history. This antique varietal is tough to produce and is often tough to grow, which is why it is hard to find outside of Italy. Astonishingly enough, this grape has lasted millennia in Italy. If the history of viticulture in Italy does nothing for you, then just be glad it happens to be a delicious wine.
Antica Masseria primitivo di manduria “antico sigillo” 2016
Producer: Tenute Emera
Winemaker: Claudio Quarta
Region: Puglia, Italy
Grape Varietal: Primitivo Di Manduria
Viticulture: Alluvial high presence limestone, cultivated less than a half-mile from the sea. The vines for this wine are over 50 years old.
Method: Vinified in steel vats at controlled temperature (70-73.5°F). Maceration on the skins for 25 days. Aged in 100% in French Oak barrels for 6 months.
Serving Suggestions: Serve slightly below room temperature with traditional red sauced pasta dishes and/or red meats.
Age: 5 years should do the trick, however, since this is the 2016 vintage, this wine should be in it's prime.
Nose: Ripe blackberry, cherry, with plenty of spice.
Tasting Notes: Blackberry, jammy cherries, and plums. The oak again provides plenty of depth and rounds out this wine well with spice and vanilla hints.
WHY WE’RE EXCITED ABOUT THIS WINE
Much of my excitement for this wine mirrors my excitement for the Fiano. This varietal is also ancient, rare, and it is delicious.
Instead of rehashing everything about historic Italian viticulture, I will focus on the region from which this wine hails: Manduria. While this wine is genetically identical to Zinfindel, Manduria's soil, climate, and oak aging bring out more earthiness to contrast the juicy red fruits that have made Zinfandel famous. Primitivo tannins also grip the consumer in a way that Zinfandel does not.
This wine has something for everyone who enjoys red wine. Primitivo has tannin, tons of fruit, and is brought together with the spice from being aged in oak. Having the opportunity to enjoy this unique style of Zinfandel is a real treat and pairs fantastically with red sauced pasta favorites.