THE HERITAGE CLUB - NOVEMBER 2019
As the clocks roll back an hour, and the weather begins to turn, November is the month that divides us into two distinct groups as we move closer to the holidays: those of us that enjoy the approach of white flurries in the morning and the decline of daylight mingled with chilly, crisp air; and those of us who are shut-ins until the first sign of spring, hibernating until rays of warmth begin to illuminate the horizon yet again. While neither may be wrong or right, each party holds their ground throughout the divisive holiday season. This month, we’ve juxtaposed two wines that also respectfully agree to disagree…
The Traditionalist
Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti DOCG 2017
Region: Italy, Chianti DOCG
Grape Varietal(s): 85% Sangiovese, accessory varietals
Viticulture: Primarily terroirs in Chianti Classico with several plantings in Ruffina and other Chianti zones
Method: Stainless steel
Serving Suggestions: Serve at cellar temperature. A quick decanting will help the wine open to some lovely fruit and savory herbaceous notes.
Age: Drink now through 2027
Tasting Notes: An intense ruby red color leads to purple flowers on the nose. Dive deeper to find red cherries and balsamic, intertwined with savory herbs. Elevated, yet balanced acidity, with distinct minerality leads to a lengthy finish.
About “Brolio”:
“Brolio” highlights the overarching typicity of a classic, Sangiovese dominant blend. The choice selection of vines from all five of Francesco’s hyper terroir focused vineyards, showcase the breadth of this sophisticated, mineral driven wine. Here, “Brolio” represents the perfect entry for the newcomer to Chianti, while showing the myriad of reasons to love the style that has defined Tuscany for centuries.
About Barone Ricasoli:
The Ricasoli family dates back to the Chianti region since 1141, and currently cultivates 240 hectares of vines in the Chianti Classico region. It was in 1872 that Baron Betino Ricasoli documented a traditional recipe for the local varietals, cementing the traditional Chianti Classico blend as we know it today. In the modern day, Francesco Ricasoli focuses his efforts on creating sustainable wines, while staying true to the rustic nature of this classic Tuscan style.
Why I’m excited about this wine:
Chianti (“Kee-on-tee) was popularized by two things: Its pairings with offal and fava beans, and its association with woven wicker packaging (read: fiasco). Even in the modern day, with so many misconceptions of Chianti (even Hopper ordered a bottle of “Chee-anti” in Season 3), it’s hard for a consumer to take it seriously. Ricasoli stakes his claim by making the perfect representation of why this wine is a no brainer. Even better, it’s guaranteed! Buying wine is always betting blind. You gotta love when the winemaker makes it easy, and you can rest assured I’m putting it all on red.
For a more in depth look at Barone Ricasoli, be sure to check out Eric’s November blog post highlighting this month’s Jefferson Club wine!
The Innovator
Cassamata Bianco IGT 2016 by Bibi Graetz
Region: Italy, Tuscany
Grape Varietals: 60% Vermentino, 30% Trebbiano, 10% Moscato
Viticulture: The coastal town of Capalbio, south of Tuscany, features dry sandy limestone
Method: Fermented low and slow in stainless steel tanks before blending and resting for 3 months
Serving Suggestions: Serve chilled, without pairings, taking in the aromatics and subtlety each grape brings to the blend.
Age: Drink now through 2021
Tasting Notes: White flowers, orange zest, and pear leap from the glass, followed by citrus and a hint of tropical fruits. A sip takes you on a journey to the warm, breezy coasts of Tuscany.
About Bibi Graetz
While cultivating vineyards in the Maremma region of Tuscany for decades, it was only in the year 2000 that Bibi took his family’s vineyards and transformed them to make more than just a house wine. Stifled by the bureaucracy that makes up the Italian laws defining wine, he vowed that his styles would never bear the DOC or DOCG representation. Instead, he proclaims his staunch belief of wines made in the IGT style, representing the more localized styles of wine that are privy to certain geographical regions within Italy. Bibi works manually in the 30 hectares of vineyard, following organic practices. He believes pruning early ensures high quality wine that needs little manipulation to showcase their true character in the bottle.
About “Cassamata”
Bibi has an affinity for evocative proprietary names, mirroring his vibrant, artistic labels. “Casamatta”, the “Crazy House” is no exception, emphasizing the approachable and bright version of a traditional Tuscan white blend. Vermentino brings fresh acidity, Moscato highlights the aromatics and liveliness to the nose, while Trebbiano harmonizes the two.
Why I’m excited about this wine:
Italian white wines are considered a benchmark of classic simplicity, so it’s always refreshing to see a serious intentional take on a gastronomic wine. Tough some think white wine is only for the summer months, this racy selection carries its weight effortlessly when paired with the most decadent of Thanksgiving fair. I love the aromatics of Moscato, embracing it whenever it finds its way into my glass. Bibi Graetz will be one of the greats, so keep your eye out.