Domaine de la Chevalerie - Bourgueil, France

A 14th generation family producing exceptional biodynamic wines in the heart of Loire.

Located 7 kilometers northeast of Bourgueil outside the village of Restigne lies the biodynamic producer Domaine de la Chevalerie. It is run by the Caslot family whom has owned the estate since 1640. Today, the vineyards are tended by Emmanuel Caslot and winery operations are executed by his sister, Stefanie. Their young assistant, Clara, helps run business and marketing, but even she was getting her hands dirty when I first arrived. There are 4 additional employees at Chevalerie, meaning that they operate the entire domaine with only 7 people, though I was later informed they usually require 12-14. But, they all love the work they do!

The family has owned the estate since 1640, but the history of this property extends much further. What is now a perfectly controlled cave (cellar) originated between the 11th and 12th centuries as a quarry. This supply of limestone, locally called “tuffeau,” helped in the creation of many local historic buildings. Today, it is a perfect resting place for their 6+ cuvees (though do not let the term dissuade you, as they are each in fact bottlings of unique parcels of land).

Each cuvee highlights the unique microclimate and subtle change in soil composition. From the sandy soils of Peu Muleau at higher elevation producing fresh, “drink now” wines to Grand-Mont with more limestone producing lush, age-worthy wines, the Caslots showcase the various expressions of Cabernet Franc. However, one through-motif is evident in all their wines: freshness. As Stefanie puts it, she prefers to think of her wines as “sports wine,” particularly in regard to the estate Chevalerie cuvee: “You can drink a bottle and never [get] tired.”

The 30 hectares at Domaine de la Chevalerie are all farmed biodynamically, a move which began in the early 2000s. This process began as an experiment, but after achieving certification in 2017, they were not done “playing” [as my friend Pihlipp at Weingut Bossert is want to say]. They have begun planting different types of cover crops to help replenish the life force of their vineyards. Additionally, they have planted a high-density vineyard to Chenin Blanc, partially because Stefanie loves the grape. And in response to the growing number of warm vintages, they have begun planting fruit trees between vineyard blocks to provide additional shade to help preserve the freshness which is all important to the character of their wines.

In the cellar, Stefanie has a non-interventional style. The grapes are all hand harvested, sorted, gently destemmed, and fermented at cool temperatures with indigenous yeast without any sulfur additions. The population of local yeast is so healthy that the cellar smells like active ferment even in early July. The new wine rests in used 50- liter barrels until spring towards the entrance of the cave so to allow an easier malolactic fermentation. Depending on the cuvee, the wine will spend 6-10 months in neutral barrels before bottling. From here, the wines rest in bottle until they are ready for release, usually 3 to 5 years after the vintage. The Caslots’ style is fairly reductive and only minimal sulfur is included at bottling, meaning the wines express themselves best with a little time and air upon opening.

Slowly, quietly aging bottles of Breteche at Domaine de la Chevalerie.

The Cuvees

Most of Chevalerie’s wines I sampled were from the 2015 vintage, one which Stefanie describes as being “classic.” The summer had warm days with cool nights and never got too hot. During warmer vintages, Stefanie doesn’t necessarily worry about losing their freshness, but the elevated sugars can sometimes stress the native yeast and cause longer, more difficult fermentations.

Peu Muleau 2015

Producer: Domaine de la Chevalerie
Winemakers: Emmanuel & Stefanie Caslot
Region: France, Loire, Bourgueil, Peu Muleau vineyard
Grape Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc
Viticulture: sandy soils over limestone; 35-year-old vines
Method: shorter elevage of 6-8 months
Serving Suggestions: decant; serve with braised or grilled vegetables and poultry
Age: drink 2019 - 2021

Tasting Notes:

Nose: crushed strawberry & cherry with slight gunsmoke
Palate: elevated acidity with mild tannins and a medium body
Finish: high minerality with silty tannins and lingering acidity of red fruits

This is the highest elevation vineyard, though still only approximately 100 meters above the Loire river. The soil here is mostly sand and clay over limestone, though an important element is the source of this sand. Lower in the valley towards the banks of the Loire, the scattered sand is sedimentary deposits from the river. Up here at higher elevation, these sands have been carried by the wind, which distributes it differently in the makeup of the soil. The fruit isn’t necessarily any less ripe, but the wine shows itself as more red-fruit driven, like strawberry, cranberry, and raspberry.

Galichets 2015 - Snapshot

Producer: Domaine de la Chevalerie
Winemakers: Emmanuel & Stefanie Caslot
Region: France, Loire, Bourgueil, Galichets vineyard
Grape Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc
Viticulture: sand and clay over limestone; 45-year-old vines
Method: 8-10 month elevage in used barrels
Serving Suggestions: decant; serve with veal and savory dishes
Age: drink 2019 - 2023

Tasting Notes:

Nose: raspberry, pencil shavings, and hint of underbrush
Palate: relaxed acidity with mild tannins and more generous fruit
Finish: clean with more firm tannin structure and softer acidity

Chevalerie 2015 – Snapshot

Producer: Domaine de la Chevalerie
Winemakers: Emmanuel & Stefanie Caslot
Region: France, Loire, Bourgueil, Chevalerie vineyard
Grape Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc
Viticulture: lower elevation; clay and sand over limestone; 65-year-old vines
Method: elevage of 10 months in used barrel
Serving Suggestions: decant; serve with roasted lamb and seared vegetables
Age: drink 2019 - 2025

Tasting Notes:

Nose: less aromatically intense of ripe cherry and spices
Palate: deeper flavors with rich tannin yet finesse
Finish: energetic finish keeps the riper tannins soft and fresh

Deeper concentration of clay mixed with limestone

Busardieres 2015 – Snapshot

Producer: Domaine de la Chevalerie
Winemakers: Emmanuel & Stefanie Caslot
Region: France, Loire, Bourgueil, Busardieres vineyard
Grape Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc
Viticulture: limestone and clay over limestone; 55-year-old vines
Method: elevage of 8-10 months in used barrels
Serving Suggestions: decant; serve with braised or grilled vegetables and poultry
Age: drink 2019 - 2025

Tasting Notes:

Nose: black raspberry and prunes with more noticeable herbal and vegetal notes
Palate: more robust character with rich, round tannins
Finish: clean, rich fruit with round mouthfeel

Healthy biodiversity in the vineyards at Domaine de la Chevalerie.